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travel

Day one of travelling

My flight didn’t leave until 2AM, so I sent the day just hanging out and doing stuff. I went to Hamra resturant for dinner, turns out that was a bad idea. It’s only 4 and 1/2 hours from Sana’a to Istanbul, but when you leave at 2AM, it’s pretty rough. The flight wasn’t crowded at all, I don’t think that there was anyone within 2 rows of me on the plane. I tried to sleep, but I never can on the plane. I sat up and noticed some light outside. I moved over to the window seat and peeked out, what I saw was amazing.

The ground was almost pitch black, with only the occasional town illuminating it’s streets and houses to mark where the ground was. As I looked up to the horizon, there was an intense band of orange, thin, but highly saturated. Above that there was a narrow band of almost pure cyan. That’s a color that you rarely see, in nature or otherwise. It faded into a dark blue and then the pitch black of the night sky. There weren’t any clouds anywhere near us and everything was crystal clear. There was one star that I could see, I assume that it was actually Venus, but it really set the mood. It was like what I imagine being in space is like. Seeing the night sky with a bright band of light low on the horizon was something special…

It turns out that the band of orange was a bank of clouds a long ways away. It was being lit by the sun from behind the curvature of the earth, I never actually saw the sun until we landed. As we got closer to Istanbul, you could see the lights of the city outlining the streets and bodies of water. The water had a slightly higher albedo than the ground, and it reflected a very slight, and very dark bluish color from the sky. I immediately knew where I was, the shape of the Bosporus gave it away, we were almost at the airport in Istanbul. The combination of the night sky, the intense colors along the horizon, the dark blue of the water, and the outlines of the streets combined for an astonishing view. It was one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen, and that’s saying something. There is no camera that has ever been made that could capture what I saw, the dynamic range was waaaay too large, plus I was shooting out of an airplane window…

The flight to Athens was easy enough, but I was really dragging at that point. Lack of sleep and a developing stomach/GI problem made me a bit cranky. After a 37 Euro(!) cab ride, I got to the hotel. The rooms are a bit on the small side, but the location is fantastic. We are almost directly under the Acropolis and right across the street from the Temple of Zeus. The view from our roof is spectacular…

I caught up with Butler and Dad and we went to the Temple of Zeus. It is impressive, and impressively old. What struck me was how haphazard and careless the Greeks have been. There are some ropes around, but anyone could, and did walk right into some of the ruins. The temple of Apollo was completely open. I think the problem is that everyone has always known where this stuff was, it has always been around. So people treat it carelessly. If this had been found in 1950, you can be sure that they would have done more to preserve it. Anyway, it was a good day, and I got to see some actual Greek ruins…

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travel

New pictures are up!

Just click on the “Recent Pictures” tab on the right side for the first 25. You can see the rest by clicking on “The rest of them.” I’ll post some more detailed info later. The short version is that I love Athens! More to come…

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travel

Off to Greece

If all goes well, I’ll be in Greece tomorrow morning. My flight leaves tomorrow morning at 1:45 AM, groan, that means a whole night without sleep. Oh well, at least the flights are pretty short. I’ll still need a nap when I get to Athens though… I hope to post pictures as I take them, stay tuned!

Categories
Yemen

That wacky Osama

I have not heard or seen the new Osama Bin Laden tape, but I have read a little bit about the reaction to it. Apparently he has endorsed the Democratic party in the upcoming US elections! The tape is filled with anti-capitalist sentiments and argues that the state has a very important part to play in religion. He does a little name dropping as well, he suggests that Americans read Noam Chomsky in order to see where he is coming from. The political blogs are having a field day with this. The “right wing” ones are saying, “See, we told you those lefties are no good! They are doing what Osama Bin Laden wants!” The ones on the left are of course trying to distance themselves from his message, but I haven’t heard any of them trying to distance themselves from Noam… I have even seen a serious thought that the Bush administration cooked the whole thing up in order to discredit the Dems. You know things are hitting a little too close when you have to resort to conspiracy theories in order to explain away something…

I do think that there is a close parallel with Osama and vast swaths of the American political system. Osama’s big thing is that the “right” people need to be in power so that they can tell everyone how they should live. He would do it through (his) religious views, both the left and the part of the right that ascribes to this world view would do it through their view of morality. Weather it is the war on terror, the war on drugs, abortion, global warming, universal health care, or whatever other causes there are out there, there are many politicians (and people that vote for them) that want to dictate the decisions we face in many different areas. Granted, political parties here do not try to kill people in order to get their way, but I still worry a bit. Beware of any chosen few that feel the need to impose their view on everyone else, nothing good can come from them…

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Yemen

We have a washing machine!

It’s one of the two tub versions. One tub does the washing, the other is just a spinner. They are quite a bit less expensive than the one tub models, why I don’t know. I would think that it would be more expensive to have two motors and tubs instead of just one. Anyway, no more hand washing! But there is a catch. The hoses aren’t long enough to reach the tap and the drain, so we have to use a bucket to load and drain. That’s not too bad I suppose. I have to do that with hand washing, but at least I don’t do the actual washing… The more complicated thing is that the machine is downstairs (It’s the only place with enough space) and the entire bottom floor is taken up by a muslim couple. This has happened before, this way the wife doesn’t have to stay covered the whole time, they can just close the door to that level. I was talking to the husband about the machine and he offered to do my laundry for me! I quickly figured out that he thought it would be the simplest arrangement, that way I wasn’t coming around checking on my laundry and generally being unexpected. Still, I feel kind of silly, the machine is supposed to make it a little easier, but now I’m not doing a damn thing! I should do something for him, but I’m not sure what…

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Arabic

Whew…

OK, just had my last class until the end of Eid. That means no class until Oct. 12th or so. Woot! I did do something that I can’t believe though, I made the recommendation that I take an exam when I get back. With any luck that will motivate me to study, at least after I get back from Greece… I want to take their placement exam that they give to incoming students just to see where I am. There is a program with distinct levels here, but many of the longer term students here don’t stick to it. I’m one of them, but I’d like to have some idea about where I am in the grand scheme of things. I’m not worrying about that right now, I’m getting ready for Greece! I’m leaving in a couple of days and there’s a bunch of stuff I need to do. MMMM, Im looking forward to some good eating while I’m there…

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Religion

Now I’m learning something…

One of the reasons I came to Yemen was to learn some things about Islam. I have been consistently disappointed with this religion. It is the first one that I have looked into that hasn’t offered me anything at all. Jainism, Mormonism, pure land Buddhism, Soto Zen, Catholicism, everything I have ever looked into has given me something to think about. I get nothing, nada, zilch from Islam here in Yemen. A conversation I had with Matthew (a fellow student here and an incoming Cambridge student in their Islamic studies program) explained part of that to me. He pointed out that while Christians frequently engage in discussions or talks about the nature of God, Muslims frequently engage in discussions on the nature of piety. All of the Islamic thought and practice that I have seen is about what you are supposed to do instead of what it means. Most Christian thought revolves around salvation through faith and belief in Christ the savior as opposed to what you do. Not surprisingly, all of the muslim thought that I have encountered seems really shallow, and quite frankly, dull. I would never make it as a muslim (at least not in Yemen) because I would constantly be asking “Why?” Maybe my western biases are showing, but I need some mystery in my spiritual life. How can Jesus be God and His son at the same time? How could they be separated at the time of the crucifixion? Is Judas in hell? I know that these questions make a lot of people simply give up and figure that it’s all a crock. The trick is to assume that they are legitimate questions and explore what the ramifications of them are. Does Islam have questions like this? Do they encourage critical thinking about Mohammed (PBUH) and what the difference is between the teachings in the Koran vs. the cultural situation that the Prophet lived in? I believe that the answer to both of those questions for most people here in Yemen is “No.” I would love to hear about some of the “mysteries” of the Islamic faith and the kinds of spiritual depths that they can instigate. Nat, I’m looking at you:-) Do I need to talk to some Sufis for this kind of knowledge?

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Yemen

Ummm, yeah. Actually, that makes sense…

My friend googled crises, and look at the only google ad that came up with that keyword. Now look at the url of the link…untitled

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Yemen

New pictures are up!

Or they should be… click on my “recent pictures” tab on the right hand side… My friend Sophia wanted to wear a bunch of traditional Yemeni wedding outfits before she left. No one wears these now a days, but 50 or 60 years ago they still did. The brides were weighed down with tons of silver. She got to wear some vintage dresses and a bunch of old, Jewish jewelry. Taking these pictures was a lot of fun, and it’s great to see the old jewelry. Check them out!

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Yemen

Yemenis and time…

I had some things planned. I was going to go to class and then right afterwards go with Sophia to finish up the jewelry shoot. 15 minutes before I went to class, my teacher called and told me that we were going to go to lunch instead with a bunch of other students and teachers. I absentmindedly said OK, but on the way I realized that it may go past the time I was due to meet Sophia and the rest of the people. I explained to the host that I needed to be back at the school by 3 O’clock. His response was that I should put whatever it was off till tomorrow because the lunch will go on much further than that. I was not pleased, and he was not pleased to find out that I was considering turning him down just because I had already made other plans with some other people. I wasn’t feeling great, so I was ready to start arguing. Do not get upset because I decline an invitation that is given to me 15 minutes in advance. Just because you have nothing to do with your time does not mean that I have nothing to do with my time. Do not expect me to stiff my friends so that I can go to lunch at a person’s house that I don’t even know… Luckily, my teacher saw that I was in no mood to take Yemeni guilt and offered to drive me back in time. I went, but I was still pissed that this guy thought so little of my time and so much of his. Unfortunately, I see this as a symptom of a larger, cultural problem of respecting other people’s time and lives. The blowing of horns in the middle of the night, the wedding parties (complete with firecrackers) starting at 11pm, the litter and trash everywhere, it all points back to them simply not thinking of how their actions affect other people. It can be really frustrating to an American.

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