Isaac
Category: Yemen
Women, veils, bluetooth and Yemen (repost)
Isaac
Well, I tried
Isaac
I forgot that today is wednesday… It’s easy to do when you aren’t working. This means that I’ve missed my window for picking up my passport at the Chinese embassy this week. I’ll have to get it on sunday. Now the trick is to remember to do this on sunday…
I went bowling with Abdul Summit last night. He’s a really competitive person and it bugs him to lose. Lucky for him, I couldn’t do much right last night. I did beat him in bowling once, scoring a decent (for me) 129. Of course the next game he nearly doubled my score. Even in pool I was terrible. I’m a much better player than he is, but we split 4 games. He told me that he lay awake half the night thinking of his bowling shortcomings. I guess I’m lucky that I’ve never taken the game too seriously.
Isaac
Last night was good
After I got back from using the internet, I took a nap and awoke very very hungry. I called Luchiano and he suggested that we go to a new (new!) pizza place. It turns out that it is the best, and most expensive, pizza here. I’m not a huge fan of thin crusts in general, but the sauce and cheese at this place was amazing. Now if I could only get some real pepperoni over here so they could put it on my pizza… I wonder if they sell it in China? This place is on Hada street, right across from Zorba’s if you ever want to go… The place kept filling up with Italians from the embassy, that has to be a good sign. I also saw two Yemeni beauties without the full getup, just in regular, western clothes. It was quite nice.
Anyway, after dinner, we went back to his place and watched a playoff basketball game. I hadn’t watched basketball in forever… The Suns beat the Lakers in a good game. Got back to my place around 1AM. A quality day…
Isaac
Traffic again
I went down to the Chinese embassy today to get my visa for the upcoming trip. It’s within walking distance, I estimate around a mile and a half. The opening hours are from 8 to 12, so I got up early and went down there. Turns out the Visa office is open at 12, grrr turns out I didn’t have to get up 4 hours before I usually do after all…
Anyway, the embassy stuff went smoothly, I should have my visa on Wed. I did almost get hit by a car twice though. Once was with a guy backing through the intersection! Since he had passed me, I wasn’t paying much attention, but I saw him with my peripheral vision in time… The walk to the embassy at 7:30 this morning was quite nice, it was quiet and easy. When I went back around noon, it was a nightmare. I had gotten there early, so I picked out a spot in the shade and waited. From there I had a good view of the closest intersection. Saw another fender bender and another one that should have been one. The cars ended up touching each other, but no damage occurred this time. If this place does improve economically, something will have to be done about the traffic…
Isaac
Does Yemen need Pinochet?
There was recently a post over at marginal revolution asking if the Pinochet years in Chile were “worth it.” Pinochet was a total SOB, having people killed and jailed for political reasons and basically being a first class dictator. Here’s the thing, he laid the groundwork for a successful economic framework that has since propelled Chile into the first world, the only country in South America that is presently there. Argentina may have qualified up until 6 or 7 years ago when their economy collapsed due to mismanagement. Tyler Cowen at MR said that even knowing what he knows now he would have tried to stop the torture and killings if he were in a position to do so. That’s a tough call, the prosperity that Chile has experienced since then has saved countless lives and raised the general well being of everyone in that country. Still, the phrase “The ends do not justify the means,” comes to mind, so I guess Tyler is ultimately right.
I do think that Yemen is a little different than Chile pre Pinochet. This country, along with seemingly all of the other “Arabic” countries is ruled by a combination of political elites in the central government and a bunch of decentralized, local sheiks who do not answer to anyone except themselves and perhaps their neighbor on occasion. In addition, the countries are saddled with an amazing amount of corruption. What if a dictator with an economically sound plan and an iron fist were to come to power in Yemen? What if he were someone that was committed to establishing the “rule of law” for the government (in so far as it didn’t interfere with his ambitions, we’re talking about a dictator here) and making the economy grow. What if he was as ruthless about corruption (as it affects every day people) as he was about his political enemies? Let’s assume that he would be able to assert control even over the Bedouins and all of the other tribal sheiks and thereby take actual control of the country? In a worse case scenario, I’m talking about a Saddam Hussein with a free market approach, more likely a Mubarek (of Egypt) with solid economic reasoning.
Yes, political prisoners, disappearances, and murders are terrible, but that goes on every day in these countries as it is. Would there be a huge difference from the run of the mill middle eastern dictator and one that took things to political extremes? The sad fact is that I am willing to bet that the people here would jump at the chance to have a ruthless, but effective leader because it would be a big step up from what they have now. As a matter of fact, ruthlessness is kind of admired here, they might not like or approve of this fictional leader, but they would respect him.
The real trick would be the transition after that leader left. In order to complete the transition from third world morass into a first world nice place to live, a free press would need to be established as well as an independent judiciary along with rights that we (in the USA) take for granted like the freedom of assembly and speech. I really cannot imagine this culture tolerating those rights and so it would eventually devolve into close to what they have now. In other words, a ruthless but economically competent leader is about as good as these countries can hope for in my opinion. Until the culture changes so that someone can say anything they want without fear of reprisal, respects the property rights of others, does not defer to sheiks and the tribal structures for justice, and can trade with anyone they want to, this place will never go anywhere on its own, it will have to be forced by some powerful leader. The brand of Islam practiced here (heavily influenced by Whabism), the related role of women, and tribalism will prevent this place from ever achieving much economically.
The even sadder thing is that we know that the chances of a dictator being interested in anything but his own status and bank account are pretty slim. There are very few dictators that have a good track record when it comes to lifting a country out of poverty. So how do you change a culture?
Isaac
yemen middle east dictator politics reform economics free market pinochet chile saddam mubarak egypt
Saw a person get hit by a car today
He was actually on a bicycle and it was totally his fault. He zoomed right into a blind intersection and a cop car was coming at a right angle to him. BAM! Luckily for the bicyclist, the cop wasn’t going very fast. The guy that got hit walked away, if it had been some of our worse drivers in the area that like to zoom up and down the narrow streets, he’d probably have been killed. The traffic here is chaotic, you really have to watch what you’re doing, but it doesn’t always help. Some of the blogs I like have written about how promising “emergent” traffic patterns are, that is traffic patterns made by the people in the traffic as opposed to following some order that is forced on them. It’s an interesting theory, but totally off base. There are some instances where order directed from the top down is beneficial, and traffic is one of them. Everything is much slower here due to the constant haggling for position in lanes and especially at intersections. It takes almost 20 minutes to go someplace that might take less than ten in DC and that’s with far fewer cars. In addition, accidents are FAR more common here. There isn’t a car here that isn’t dented, scratched, or otherwise scarred from the traffic. I have witnessed or been involved in 5 different fender benders and now a hit bicyclist in the last 5 months here in Sana’a. That’s more than I ever saw or was involved in in 8 years in the DC area! The traffic in DC is much faster, there are many more cars (probably by a factor of 3) and I was driving EVERY DAY back home. One potential benefit to the traffic “system” here is that there probably are fewer serious injuries or deaths per accident due to the slower speeds, but I’m not sure if that is evened out by the sheer number of accidents that occur here. Emergent phenomena are fascinating, but traffic needs a firm hand to make it safe.
Isaac
Good looking coin


The tree is called “The tree of life” and is found on Socotra island. I don’t know why it’s called that. This is a picture of the older type with what I believe is a brass center. The new ones are made from one metal, I think they are aluminum. The new ones are undoubtedly less expensive to make since they are stamped out of a single piece of metal. Abdul Summit tells me that many people cut the middle out of these older coins to make decorations for their jambiays, necklaces, etc. I like this particular coin, it has a good patina on it and makes the graphics easier to see. I’ll keep looking for a better one though.
Isaac
What kids do here…
I have also seen kids playing marbles. I’ve never actually seen this in person before, it had always been in the movies or TV shows. The kids draw a circle with chalk on some relatively even pavement and then try to knock marbles out of the circle. I haven’t seen any of them with “shooters”, they just use regular marbles to hit the other ones. Another difference is that I don’t think they play “for keeps”, that would be a little too much like gambling. Let’s see, if we go by the marble measure, it means that kids in Yemen today are at about a level with kids in the US in 1950 or so… Not sure how accurate that is, but I think it’s about right…
The kids here seem to be very fond of dragging things on the ground. If they find some string or rope, they inevitably tie it around some refuse and pull it behind them. I have no idea what that’s about. I’ve also seen a fair number playing with broken parts of strollers or kid’s bikes. The most prized part is a shaft with a working wheel on an axle. They push this in front of them for hours. I guess imagination is a kid’s best friend all over the world.
Isaac