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Yemen

Female Genital Mutilation in Yemen (repost)

I recently read an article in the Yemen Observer and I was appalled. It’s a little gruesome, but I encourage you to read the rest of it OK, I knew that FGM (or female circumcision as it is euphinisticly called) is a big problem in Africa, but I never thought about it here. Yemen is very close to Africa, so it shouldn’t surprise me I suppose. Anyway, the most common method of doing this is to completely cut off the clitoris and labia minora. A more extreme version also sews the labia majora together leaving only small opening. This is done to girls somewhere between being newborns and adolescents. Since this is done in village settings mostly, no anesthetics are used. Some richer families will take their daughters to a health clinic where things are supposedly sterilized…

Why do people do this? There are a handful of reasons given, none of which are convincing of course. Some argue that it is for “hygiene” purposes, never mind the terrible complications due to blood loss, infections, abscesses, etc. This reason plays right into the whole “women are dirty” mind set… Some claim that it is necessary under Islamic law. This is totally false, there isn’t a single verse in the Koran about this, and I don’t believe any reputable scholar has endorsed this practice. As a matter of fact, a fairly straightforward argument can be made against it on Islamic grounds. To do this for the reasons stated implies that God made a flawed or purposeless part of a women. If you think you are “correcting” God’s mistake, you are committing blasphemy in the purest sense.

Then there are the people that get right down to it. They claim that by doing this they will make women less sexually active. This is supposed to lead to chastity before marriage and them being loyal to their husbands. Well, maybe it would, but my God! Talk about brutal! If a woman was crazy enough to want to do this for that reason, well, she’s crazy but at least it would be her decision. Can you imagine taking your 12 year old daughter to have this done to her? Can you imagine being that 12 year old? Or can you imagine finding out what had been done to you as a baby and “looking forward” to your wedding night? 

For me, this last reason is what it is all about. Arabic culture is accused of being brutal to women. Most people point to the veiling of women and their place in society as examples. To me, those things are a blend of culture and religion and I can’t definitively call them repressive. FGM is another matter, there is no excuse and it is nothing but brutality. FGM is a way to assert control over women and to deny them of sexual pleasure or even of sexual freedom. What really galls me is that the article gives short shrift to the “sexual problems”, possible physical complications, mental scarring, and the appalling lack of freedom that the daughters and mothers have in this choice and instead concentrate most of the negativity on possible complications during childbirth. “It’s all about having children!” is the basic point of the article. I guess the paper was playing to its audience, but I do wish that they had the guts to drive home the more repressive aspects of the practice. 

Oh, and the women that say “It’s a badge of honor and chastity” should just be shot. If its so damned honorable, why force women to do it? A really honorable woman would do it to herself following that line of “reasoning.” I suppose there is probably more than a little rationalization going on there. I guess if I had something that terrible done to me, I’d try to find meaning in it too… Anyway, I had heard of this issue before but I was never really aware of what was actually involved. I’m glad that I know about it now, but it saddens me to think that people could really do this sort of thing….

Isaac

Categories
Yemen

Women, veils, bluetooth and Yemen (repost)

I’ve been meaning to write a bit about how women dress here for a while. A common thought in the west is that men force women to wear what they wear here. I’m sure that there’s a lot of that going on, but I get the distinct feeling that most women here prefer wearing the balto/hijab/veil. Forcing them to not wear them would be like making a woman in the west take off her pants. Walking around in your underwear isn’t exactly scandalous, but it sure would be embarrassing to go to the supermarket like that. Wearing the whole getup is considered modest here, going without one of the items of clothing would be horrifying to most women here.

Having said that, if a (local) woman doesn’t want to wear some of those things, she’s in for a very hard time. Her family (male and female) will give her a very hard time and the men on the street will def. give her a hard time. Many women simply can’t choose what to wear because of their husband and/or family. As you might imagine, this upsets me considerably…

Then there is today’s Yemen Times. I’ll put the first couple of paragraphs up here…

”Fatima, 30, of Sana’a, who asked that her whole name not be revealed, was married and has three kids. Until recently, she was living happily with her family. Then, she was invited to a wedding party in her area. She prepared by putting on makeup and dressing up in a fancy dress to attend the party. 

At the wedding party, she spent a lovely time with the other women there. A short time later, her husband was at work, when a friend said to him, “if you want to see hot pictures, turn on your Bluetooth.” Bluetooth technology allows users to send information wirelessly from one device to another, say from phone to phone or computer to computer. Fatima’s husband was excited when he received the pictures, but when he saw them, he was surprised and angered in the same time, because he saw his wife in these pictures. 

He immediately went back to his home and asked his wife how her photographs got out. She did not know that some girls took pictures of her at the wedding party, and then sent them by Bluetooth to every mobile nearby. The husband did not believe her, however, and so he divorced her and the lovely family collapsed. Fatima is just one of the victim’s of the downside of new technology. While Bluetooth can be an excellent tool for working and communicating, it can also create serious problems when used irresponsibly.”

See the rest of the article
here.


OK, there are so many problems with this I don’t even know where to begin. How about the husband’s hypocrisy? What if someone had spied on her while she was dressing/undressing? If the pictures he saw were of her in some sort of state of undress, he probably would have killed her. No exaggeration, I would expect it, and I’m sure that most locals would too.

At some point, someone has to say that it isn’t a crime to want to see a woman’s face, that it isn’t unnatural to want to see her hair. In addition, it isn’t any sort of moral failing, and it does not reflect badly on a woman if she wants to show her face. There are rumblings along those lines here, but that’s in the big city. In the villages, especially further north towards Saudi, this type of talk is not tolerated. 

Just when I am about to give this culture the benefit of the doubt, something stupid like this comes up. I don’t bother discussing it with the locals, it would only piss me off. Today is one of those days that I wonder why this society isn’t even worse off than it is. It is shocking to see how low an opinion the men have of women here, it’s also shocking that they lay all of the supposed faults with sex drive at the woman’s feet. I have read two introductions to Islam for westerners and both have explained the balto/hijab/veil in terms of rape avoidance. According to Islamic thought (and I don’t think that this is supported by the Koran but an interpretation from bedouin circles) women are raped because of their beauty. There it is, it is their fault. Make no mistake, if a guy is caught raping a woman, he is going to die. But frequently, the woman is killed to “preserve their honor.” So called honor crimes are on the decline, but they are still prevalent. 

Abdul Summit told me that Yemen is like America in the 70’s. Maybe the 1870’s, but then again, I don’t think we were ever as backwards as they are with women right now…
Isaac

Categories
Yemen

Well, I tried

I went back to the art galleries with money in my pocket, ready to buy something as a reminder of my trip. I ran into what I call the music store clench. It used to be that I would think of some music I would like to buy, would wander over to Tower Records (RIP) and not be able to buy a thing. I would pick up the cds I wanted and I just couldn’t check out with them. I have no similar problem when buying over the internet, Amazon, Amazon used, cd club, or Ebay. I’m sure it’s all about the price, Tower certainly didn’t win any price comparisons… Anyway, I went back to the galleries, saw the same things that excited me last time, but I couldn’t take my money out and buy anything. I guess it’s for the best. I’ll wander over there from time to time and see if there’s something that I can’t live without. I’ll also ask around and see if there are any other galleries around.

Isaac

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Yemen

Crap!

I forgot that today is wednesday… It’s easy to do when you aren’t working. This means that I’ve missed my window for picking up my passport at the Chinese embassy this week. I’ll have to get it on sunday. Now the trick is to remember to do this on sunday…

I went bowling with Abdul Summit last night. He’s a really competitive person and it bugs him to lose. Lucky for him, I couldn’t do much right last night. I did beat him in bowling once, scoring a decent (for me) 129. Of course the next game he nearly doubled my score. Even in pool I was terrible. I’m a much better player than he is, but we split 4 games. He told me that he lay awake half the night thinking of his bowling shortcomings. I guess I’m lucky that I’ve never taken the game too seriously.

Isaac

Categories
Yemen

Last night was good

After I got back from using the internet, I took a nap and awoke very very hungry. I called Luchiano and he suggested that we go to a new (new!) pizza place. It turns out that it is the best, and most expensive, pizza here. I’m not a huge fan of thin crusts in general, but the sauce and cheese at this place was amazing. Now if I could only get some real pepperoni over here so they could put it on my pizza… I wonder if they sell it in China? This place is on Hada street, right across from Zorba’s if you ever want to go… The place kept filling up with Italians from the embassy, that has to be a good sign. I also saw two Yemeni beauties without the full getup, just in regular, western clothes. It was quite nice.

Anyway, after dinner, we went back to his place and watched a playoff basketball game. I hadn’t watched basketball in forever… The Suns beat the Lakers in a good game. Got back to my place around 1AM. A quality day…

Isaac

Categories
Yemen

Traffic again

I went down to the Chinese embassy today to get my visa for the upcoming trip. It’s within walking distance, I estimate around a mile and a half. The opening hours are from 8 to 12, so I got up early and went down there. Turns out the Visa office is open at 12, grrr turns out I didn’t have to get up 4 hours before I usually do after all…

Anyway, the embassy stuff went smoothly, I should have my visa on Wed. I did almost get hit by a car twice though. Once was with a guy backing through the intersection! Since he had passed me, I wasn’t paying much attention, but I saw him with my peripheral vision in time… The walk to the embassy at 7:30 this morning was quite nice, it was quiet and easy. When I went back around noon, it was a nightmare. I had gotten there early, so I picked out a spot in the shade and waited. From there I had a good view of the closest intersection. Saw another fender bender and another one that should have been one. The cars ended up touching each other, but no damage occurred this time. If this place does improve economically, something will have to be done about the traffic…

Isaac

Categories
Yemen

Does Yemen need Pinochet?

There was recently a post over at marginal revolution asking if the Pinochet years in Chile were “worth it.” Pinochet was a total SOB, having people killed and jailed for political reasons and basically being a first class dictator. Here’s the thing, he laid the groundwork for a successful economic framework that has since propelled Chile into the first world, the only country in South America that is presently there. Argentina may have qualified up until 6 or 7 years ago when their economy collapsed due to mismanagement. Tyler Cowen at MR said that even knowing what he knows now he would have tried to stop the torture and killings if he were in a position to do so. That’s a tough call, the prosperity that Chile has experienced since then has saved countless lives and raised the general well being of everyone in that country. Still, the phrase “The ends do not justify the means,” comes to mind, so I guess Tyler is ultimately right.

I do think that Yemen is a little different than Chile pre Pinochet. This country, along with seemingly all of the other “Arabic” countries is ruled by a combination of political elites in the central government and a bunch of decentralized, local sheiks who do not answer to anyone except themselves and perhaps their neighbor on occasion. In addition, the countries are saddled with an amazing amount of corruption. What if a dictator with an economically sound plan and an iron fist were to come to power in Yemen? What if he were someone that was committed to establishing the “rule of law” for the government (in so far as it didn’t interfere with his ambitions, we’re talking about a dictator here) and making the economy grow. What if he was as ruthless about corruption (as it affects every day people) as he was about his political enemies? Let’s assume that he would be able to assert control even over the Bedouins and all of the other tribal sheiks and thereby take actual control of the country? In a worse case scenario, I’m talking about a Saddam Hussein with a free market approach, more likely a Mubarek (of Egypt) with solid economic reasoning.

Yes, political prisoners, disappearances, and murders are terrible, but that goes on every day in these countries as it is. Would there be a huge difference from the run of the mill middle eastern dictator and one that took things to political extremes? The sad fact is that I am willing to bet that the people here would jump at the chance to have a ruthless, but effective leader because it would be a big step up from what they have now. As a matter of fact, ruthlessness is kind of admired here, they might not like or approve of this fictional leader, but they would respect him.

The real trick would be the transition after that leader left. In order to complete the transition from third world morass into a first world nice place to live, a free press would need to be established as well as an independent judiciary along with rights that we (in the USA) take for granted like the freedom of assembly and speech. I really cannot imagine this culture tolerating those rights and so it would eventually devolve into close to what they have now. In other words, a ruthless but economically competent leader is about as good as these countries can hope for in my opinion. Until the culture changes so that someone can say anything they want without fear of reprisal, respects the property rights of others, does not defer to sheiks and the tribal structures for justice, and can trade with anyone they want to, this place will never go anywhere on its own, it will have to be forced by some powerful leader. The brand of Islam practiced here (heavily influenced by Whabism), the related role of women, and tribalism will prevent this place from ever achieving much economically.

The even sadder thing is that we know that the chances of a dictator being interested in anything but his own status and bank account are pretty slim. There are very few dictators that have a good track record when it comes to lifting a country out of poverty. So how do you change a culture?

Isaac

Categories
Yemen

Saw a person get hit by a car today

He was actually on a bicycle and it was totally his fault. He zoomed right into a blind intersection and a cop car was coming at a right angle to him. BAM! Luckily for the bicyclist, the cop wasn’t going very fast. The guy that got hit walked away, if it had been some of our worse drivers in the area that like to zoom up and down the narrow streets, he’d probably have been killed. The traffic here is chaotic, you really have to watch what you’re doing, but it doesn’t always help. Some of the blogs I like have written about how promising “emergent” traffic patterns are, that is traffic patterns made by the people in the traffic as opposed to following some order that is forced on them. It’s an interesting theory, but totally off base. There are some instances where order directed from the top down is beneficial, and traffic is one of them. Everything is much slower here due to the constant haggling for position in lanes and especially at intersections. It takes almost 20 minutes to go someplace that might take less than ten in DC and that’s with far fewer cars. In addition, accidents are FAR more common here. There isn’t a car here that isn’t dented, scratched, or otherwise scarred from the traffic. I have witnessed or been involved in 5 different fender benders and now a hit bicyclist in the last 5 months here in Sana’a. That’s more than I ever saw or was involved in in 8 years in the DC area! The traffic in DC is much faster, there are many more cars (probably by a factor of 3) and I was driving EVERY DAY back home. One potential benefit to the traffic “system” here is that there probably are fewer serious injuries or deaths per accident due to the slower speeds, but I’m not sure if that is evened out by the sheer number of accidents that occur here. Emergent phenomena are fascinating, but traffic needs a firm hand to make it safe.

Isaac

Categories
Yemen

Good looking coin

My favorite bit of currency here is the 20 riyal coin. It’s worth a little less than 10 cents US these days.

DSC00877DSC00880

The tree is called “The tree of life” and is found on Socotra island. I don’t know why it’s called that. This is a picture of the older type with what I believe is a brass center. The new ones are made from one metal, I think they are aluminum. The new ones are undoubtedly less expensive to make since they are stamped out of a single piece of metal. Abdul Summit tells me that many people cut the middle out of these older coins to make decorations for their jambiays, necklaces, etc. I like this particular coin, it has a good patina on it and makes the graphics easier to see. I’ll keep looking for a better one though.

Isaac

Categories
Yemen

What kids do here…

There really isn’t any place for kids to play in the old city, no good fields or open spaces to speak of. So they play in the streets and alleys. It usually involves some combo of a ball, rocks, various pieces of garbage, and lots and lots of yelling. Soccer is of course the most popular sport of course, so whenever there is a group of kids and a ball, a game usually breaks out. Strangely enough, the ball is ALWAYS slightly deflated. I had always assumed that it was a poverty related thing, but it might have more to do with playing in an alleyway. Maybe it makes for a better game if the ball doesn’t come off the wall so hard…

I have also seen kids playing marbles. I’ve never actually seen this in person before, it had always been in the movies or TV shows. The kids draw a circle with chalk on some relatively even pavement and then try to knock marbles out of the circle. I haven’t seen any of them with “shooters”, they just use regular marbles to hit the other ones. Another difference is that I don’t think they play “for keeps”, that would be a little too much like gambling. Let’s see, if we go by the marble measure, it means that kids in Yemen today are at about a level with kids in the US in 1950 or so… Not sure how accurate that is, but I think it’s about right…

The kids here seem to be very fond of dragging things on the ground. If they find some string or rope, they inevitably tie it around some refuse and pull it behind them. I have no idea what that’s about. I’ve also seen a fair number playing with broken parts of strollers or kid’s bikes. The most prized part is a shaft with a working wheel on an axle. They push this in front of them for hours. I guess imagination is a kid’s best friend all over the world.

Isaac