I get the occasional email asking me about studying in Yemen and it occurs to me that I have not put up a post with that info in one place, so here goes…
Yemen is a great place to study Arabic. Everyone speaks it (after a fashion), the people are really nice, and it is cheap. For us western types, it is also an amazing cultural immersion.
The majority of Arabic language schools are in Sana’a, that’s where I stayed. I went to CALES in the old city. They are right in the center of the old city, so there is plenty of “atmosphere.” I took private lessons because that is the best way to learn and being in Yemen, I could afford them. When I started out, I didn’t know any Arabic at all. I was paired up with a teacher that knew English well enough to explain the basic stuff. Some people prefer having a teacher that speaks Arabic only. I dunno, I think I would have been too intimidated at first with all Arabic, but I do think it was useful later on. In any case, you can have it either way, you choose. All of my teachers were very good, but I had to keep some of them on point. I got the feeling that I was teaching him more about the US than I was learning Arabic, so I changed teachers. All of the teachers there were very knowledgeable about Arabic, I never felt that they didn’t know what they were talking about. I think they all have degrees in the teaching of Arabic…
There are other schools there as well. I have heard good things about SIAL and a couple of the others, but I don’t really know much about them. My gut feeling is that you can get good instruction in any of them. A lot of people also get private lessons (outside of an institute) once they make some contacts. That will cost less and be more flexible, but at the cost of not having any sort of document about your attainment level like CALES has…
Living in Yemen is part of the appeal of going there. All of the schools offer accommodations. If you’re there for a short while, it’s probably best to use them. CALES has two main buildings. The big one, and where most of the students live, is right next to the school right downtown. I lived in another building out towards the Sileah. EIther are fine…
If you’re going to stay longer than a few months, it pays to find your own place. Often times, there will be other students looking for housemates, just ask around. Foreigners tend to pay more than the locals do for housing, but it is still a much better deal than living at the school. I was paying $200 a month at both the school and the apartment. Of course I got my own apartment for that as compared to a single (large) room and a shared bathroom and kitchen…
Living in the old city makes it easy to get to class, that’s the main reason I lived there. I knew that if it was difficult to get to class, I wouldn’t go sometimes. There are some big issues with living in the old city though… The buildings tend to be quite old, and things like plumbing, electrical stuff, etc. can be a bit hit or miss. There is also the noise. The school buildings tend to be quite noisy, there is a lot of noise coming off of the street. Buildings in the old city tend to be very close to one another with very narrow streets, so it can sound like people are in the room with you. The trick is to live a little higher, if you can get up three stories or more, the noise level drops off quite a bit. I got lucky with my apartment, it had a walled courtyard that separated me from a lot of the noise.
If I were to this again, I would probably live in the newer part of the city. No, it isn’t as beautiful, but it is much easier to fine open restaurants, grocery stores, and anything else. If you want something to eat at 4 O’clock in the old city, all you’re going to find is french fries for the most part. It’ll take you upwards of half an hour to get to someplace that’s open in the new city… The apartments in the new city tend to have better plumbing and easier access to “high speed” internet.
The other potential advantage to living in the newer part of the city is that if you work, it will be easier to get to your job. Most native English speakers can find a job teaching English. You should be able to find a place offering $10 an hour with a little looking around. That doesn’t sound like much, but that’s doing pretty well in Yemen…
Anyway, I encourage anyone that wants to learn Arabic to check out Yemen. It is cheaper than many other places, and the instruction is top notch. If you feel that it isn’t right for you, it’s really easy to hop a plane to Syria, Egypt, etc. Drop me a line if you have any other questions!